Going out and drinking in Saratoga is certainly a learning experience, and anybody who's spent a summer at the Spa has been schooled on the great art.

My 15-summer education has gone from sliding a fake ID past the bouncer at the Bijou, to drinking Irish Flags in the Parting Glass while the sun's coming up, to sipping wine with the love of my life at the Wine Bar on Broadway. Saratoga is Ivy League when it comes to life after hours.

And it's the only place in the world where behavior is easily pardoned with an "Ah, it's Saratoga." Do it at home and you're blackballed, do it at Saratoga and you're blue-ribboned. The race meet lasts six weeks, which means time is of the essence at Saratoga. There is no time to waste and there is no opportunity like Saratoga. Summer is starting to wane and the world has converged at one moment in one place with one thing in common - horse racing - so it's time to get out of the house and throw a few back. It's up to you on how many to throw; in Saratoga, you can start as early as you want and finish as late as you want.

It won't be hard to find a local spot of your choice. Saratoga has over 100 restaurants and bars to pick from. They say the town was discovered because of the natural springs, perhaps, but they quickly gave way to the natural taps. Don't get me wrong, though, this is not Bourbon Street in New Orleans. It's more refined in Saratoga, and diversity is the key.

You can browse Broadway and duck down any street you like or drive out to the lake and pick the sign that feels right or just start the pub crawl in your hotel lobby and go from there.

The question is not where to go out in Saratoga. It's where to go out to match what kind of day you had, what kind of mood you're in, or who you're with at the time. Like ordering a latte at Starbuck's, there are choices.

A good day at the track can easily be parlayed into a good time at the bar of your choice. Walk across Union Avenue to Bruno's and grab a quick beer at the bar. You're bound to run into a professional gambler who wants to give you advice. A profitable day can be wiped out with a round of drinks and dinner at Siro's. You can either drink beer from the can at the bar or pull lobster from the shell in the restaurant. If you're into concealing your good day, then wade through the college crowd (and spilled beer) at Desperate Annie's or the Tin and Lint on Caroline Street. The street becomes a block party as the night goes on.

A good day can be shared with 100 of your closest Irish relatives at the Parting Glass. And it can be beaten into your id while dancing to Techno at the Metro.

A bad day at the track can be forgotten about just as easily as a good day can be celebrated. Retreat into Peabody's and watch the early season college football games like a man. Stand at the rail of the Ice House while holding the break on the pool table. Get out of town to Cliff's on the lake and have a cold beer and a steak. While you're out there, stop in at the Anchor Inn for a casual one. Be careful of Sperry's because the winning trainer (yeah, you know the guy who beat your horse) might be going over Tom Durkin's call at the bar.

As far as who you're with, well, that's probably too much journalistic freedom for any writer. I'll do my best, and I won't give away any of my secrets. If it's privacy you want, 9 Maple with the door down the alley features jazz, single malt scotch, and martinis. If it's atmosphere, the bar at 43 Phila gives a good feel while the big players of the racing game come and go. If it's clean air and big screens, then the Stadium Cafe sports bar and its no-smoking policy could be the way to go. If it's dancing, the Metro has a floor for every music taste.

And that's what it comes down to when deciding on a bar stool - taste. Yours will be satisfied somewhere. The Saratoga Brew Pub has its own beer selection. Bailey's brings in the jockeys for guest bartender night.

Gaffney's has an outdoor patio. Caffe Lena won't serve you alcohol but it will serve you original live music from the likes of Odetta, Pat Donohue, and Ellis Paul. Aiko's can rock you right onto the street with Grateful Dead cover bands that would make Jerry Garcia proud.

Ask anyone you know where they like to go, and you might get a different answer. But most will tell you they usually do late night at the Parting Glass or Siro's. Before that, it's a smorgasbord of choices. Remember, it all depends on the day you've had and the company you're keeping. But when it gets late, neither matters, and you'll probably find your way to the Glass or Siro's. Both serve food late and drinks later. Both the Glass and Siro's have stories to go along with each poured drink.

The Glass is Irish. Siro's can be worldly. Both are Saratoga. Siro's offers the juxtaposition of drinking. Outside after the races, it could be a beach party with music blaring and drinks going down faster than the odds on a touted first-time starter. Inside, it's anything from Fasig-Tipton celebrating a good sale to old men hitting on young women. Love it or hate it, you're bound to be there at some point.

The Glass used to be full of kids and Irish exercise riders. It's still filled with both, but these days it gets a crowd that can range from Skidmore students jamming with the Burners UK to Museum ball refugees trying to keep the night going. They have a wall of dart boards and a shuffle board table if you're still looking for the competitive release. Tell Frank at the bar that Sean sent you, and he might pour you a free cold one from one of the countless running taps. But be careful at the Glass, that deep-down Irish blood can find its way to the surface before you know it. Singing the words to the Sawdoctor's "I Useta Love Her Once" is one thing, but when you climb on the table and belt it out, you've gone too far, even in the Parting Glass.

And remember the cardinal rules of the August place to be. If your relationship makes it out of Saratoga intact, then it's for real. Stay out of Congress Park at night. The Horseshoe opens for breakfast. And order the Bloody Marys spicy. It could be a long day.

Sean Clancy is co-editor and co-publisher of the Saratoga Special.